In our left-back corner, we installed a 90x140 cm shower floor we found second-hand. Elke spent a lot of time removing all the leftover synthetic sealant to make it shine again. We then built a small wooden frame to support the edges. Instead of using spray foam (which is often used in these installations) to support the middle we chose to use a leftover piece of Gutex in the center. We then drilled a hole through the ESB floor, insulation and cement-bonded particle boards (CBPB) so we could install a drainage pipe that will be connected to our reed bed filter system. We used Illbruck SP525 Proflex Seal 25 to seal the gaps between the drainage pipe and the cement-bonded particle boards (CBPB).
We then screwed 2 horizontal beams (3x4cm) to the surrounding walls. These are supporting the vertical Douglas planks (2x18cm) that are also screwed on both sides with a spacing of 3-5mm between them. We covered both this spacing and the visible screws with another layer of Douglas planks (2x5cm) that overlap the first layer. In this space we only used stainless steel screws.
All screws of the first plank layer are covered by the second plank layer which is only fixed with three screws for each plank. To hide (and protect) these screws we experimented with putty (lineseed oild + chalk) and natural pigments. To match the pink/orange colour of the wood we used iron oxide pigment (which is similar to rust powder).
After we installed the shower floor we tried to use Tescon Vana tape to seal up the small gaps between the ESB boards and the drainage pipe, to increase airtightness. This proved to be very difficult since the space between the shower and the floor was only a few centimeters. We changed our plan and decided to tape the sides of the shower to the wall and floor. This way outside air can only flow underneath the shower floor, but no further. To make sure the tape sticked to the wall we first sanded it, removing the layer of loam paint. This method also minimizes the risk of water getting in between the wall and the shower edges.
When we first designed our house we wanted to close off the shower space to keep all the moisture in one room. But then we started questioning why this is so often done in bathroom designs. We asked ourselves if maybe it would be better to leave this space open, so moisture could spread out evenly into the entire space. To minimize moisture being trapped further we left the sides of the wood cladding open, so air can easily flow between the wood and the ESB walls.
It is worth mentioning that we use our shower differently then most people in our region. To wash ourselves we fill a bucket with water that we first heat on the gas/fire stove. We then use a small cup to pour the water over ourselves. This is not so common in Belgium but in many countries this standard practice. We notice that this way of showering has a few benefits. Because you pour the water directly where you need it, you end up using a lot less water. This method also seems to create a lot less vapor into the air, since the water is not spread out into tiny streams but is rather being poured as one stream. Overal this method seems to make you ‘more aware’ of what you are doing. Every movement, every pour is conscious, which transforms this moment into a small ritual. We also try to shower when the wood stove is on our when the sun is shining to further balance the moisture in the space. We use a digital meter that helps us track all these changes in the air so we can adjust accordingly.